In Bruges

For the last three days we have explored much (but not all) Bruges has to offer. It is certainly an enchanting city with fascinating buildings around every corner. We have visited richly decorated churches with their venerated relics, some including superb displays of clerical vestments and rich tapestries, gold and silver ornaments, gem-studded caskets, bronze effigies of kings and queens. We have seen superb medieval and renaissance buildings, walls covered in stunning works of art and intricate wood carvings.


We have taken a boat trip through the canals of Bruges and a leisurely boat trip of 5 kms to the nearby town of Damme, unfortunately choosing a Wednesday when almost everything was closed. We have walked many miles on cobbled streets, along canals, admiring the varied bird life



and tiny lush gardens with vibrant roses along the canals.
We have seen a superb exhibition on the life and times of Charles the Bold, a 15th century Burgundian prince with massive ambition for territorial expansion. The exhibits included some of Bruges' famous Flemish primitive paintings but so much more -- clothing, artefacts, jewelery, tapestries, armour, you name it.

In one church we saw a little-known but beautiful Michelangelo sculpture of the Virgin and child, sitting in a niche behind an altar railing, but otherwise with no special security.

In addition we also visited a museum in an old hospital building which housed a lot more art; the chocolate museum which told the history of chocolate, along with demonstrations and tastings; and a lighting museum which had the most astonishing collection of lamps and other associated lighting throughout history.

We have tried several varieties of beer (bars boast 100+ brands) and various versions of coffee and hot chocolate.
The best was served as steaming hot milk with a molten pot of dark liquid chocolate on the side, so that we could mix it to the desired strength, and lick the pot clean.
We have eaten well, and sometimes very simply, --- prices are very high. We celebrated Barry's 60th birthday in a very nice gourmet restaurant just around the corner (De Bottelier).
The food was excellent and the decor fascinating, hundreds of clocks and various curiosities filling the place. And as the sun does not set until 10.30pm we were able to watch the white swans with their little cygnets swimming along the canal and a couple of pet rabbits playing in the garden.


The weather has been kind to us. No rain, mostly sunny skies, but cold at times. The apartment has been a wonderful home in the city. A group of Japanese tourists looked at us enviously and made appreciative noises when they saw us letting ourselves in through the access door that leads directly off the street.


The oddest moment: a group of school children doing some sort of school project, asked me to draw the bell tower that dominates Markt Square. I have no idea to what use they were going to put my rather poor effort. I briefly thought they may have been testing the gullibility and vulnerability of tourists (looking up, hands occupied, leaving handbag or wallet available to thieves) but I don't think it was anything so complex. Indeed, in terms of risk, Bruges is probably very low, partly because nearly everyone you see is a tourist. Or a local student or middle-aged housewife going about town on a bicycle.
(Most of the locals seem to travel by bike.)