Driving along the Rhine

We had no definite destination for today, planning to travel along the Rhine, perhaps to Mainz. The Rhine Valley is quite different from the Mosel: more spectacular, steeper sided banks with exposed rocks, one of which, the Loreley, is famous as the site where a mythical maiden lured sailors to their deaths. Huge castles, some intact, others in ruins, top the hills around almost every bend in the river.

But I found the Mosel prettier and less touristy. We followed the West bank of the Rhine from Boppard (pronounced Bowpart) to Bingen.

Boppard town centre:

In Boppard, bathed in sunshine, Jan and Barry took the chairlift up the mountain to view the town and the bends in the river, which create the illusion of several lakes. We probably should have joined them, but as heights are not really my thing, we chose instead to wander around town, visiting the churches and quaint buildings such as the Tea House (shown).









After a light lunch, we collected the car and made quick progress, stopping only at Bacharach, a lovely little town which is entered through some rather ugly old stone walls. We ate 'riesling' flavoured ice creams and walked about town. Much to my frustration, as always, the interesting-looking antique shops were closed.

At Bingen we needed to cross the river if we were to visit Rudesheim, which is regarded as the tourist 'gem' ( or tourist 'nightmare', depending on your point of view) along the river. Then our troubles started. We had two choices: find the car ferry, or drive around in a loop, onto a major highway. The signs disappeared; so we didn't make it to Rudesheim. Barry, who was driving, had to put up with three navigators, or 4, counting the GPS, all offering alternative routes. He nearly chucked a wobbly, and I don't blame him. But we quickly decided that it didn't matter where we were heading and settled instead on a destination, almost picked at random -- a town named Oppenheim.

Oppenheim

The narrow streets were a bit daunting and we twisted and turned our way to the central square, parked, then set off to look for accommodation. Barry, probably feeling he could cope better without us, set off in one direction and the rest of us in another. We met with problems wherever we went -- they couldn't accommodate us all, they were closed on Monday, they were full. Outside one hotel, the boss lounged drinking, and quoted us a price. We said we would see if we could find something cheaper, and he said we wouldn't be successful. He proved to be right, so, eating humble pie ,we went back and accepted the deal. He offered to show John where he could park the car, so John took off alone in the car, following the hotel owner, assuming he was only going to move the car about 100 meters, but he was taken about a kilometer away. In the meantime Barry returned to say he'd found us a much cheaper place, but John had taken off with all our luggage in the car. Now it was my turn to chuck a wobbly. The hotel 'manager', a real scruff in working trousers and a stained tee-shirt, offered to drive me in his car in search of John. He spoke no English, but he understood I was not happy with the situation. He then drive through the streets like a madman and we did not find John or the parked car, so returned to the hotel only to find that John, too, had returned, as he realised we needed to get the luggage. After all this running around, we felt we had to stay in this hotel,
Gasthaus Zum Storchen (The Stork).

It was an odd place. We think we may have been the first guests they have had in a very recently renovated old inn. The rooms were very modern but rather bare and there were various things missing, like drinking glasses and rubbish bins. But they had WiFi, so John was happy. We chose to eat at another restaurant where a woman had been helpful to us earlier, making phone calls on our behalf. We enjoyed the meat dishes, especially the rich beef goulash, but found the accompanying dumplings gluey and leaden. (Like play-dough without the colour.) The meal ended with a delicious dessert of fresh strawberries and icecream. Strawberries are in season and are cheap and luscious. We have also bought nice cherries in the markets and Jan and Barry were pleased that they have just caught the end of the fresh white asparagus season. Local white wine is very cheap, even when served in restaurants.

A local curiosity in Oppenheim were figures of frogs in various places dotted about town, including one fascinating group with articulated legs which any passerby could move into whatever position they chose.
Nearly every little town has interesting sculptures, mostly folksy figures in bronze and set in a fountain with nearby seating.

Oppenheim is not a tourist destination but it does have a few attractions, including a ruined fort and a labyrinth of tunnels under the town.


Oppenheim cathedral from the old castle: